Out of the Proverbial Closet

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Platinum Magazine - Oct 2001

17% of Americans would give up their spouse for more closet space. Marital quabbles aside, organization is the answer. Melissa Gallo, with the help of a few self-confessed obsessive-compulsive experts, talks you through it.

By Melissa Gallo

Every day will have a slightly smoother start, as you will be able to view your entire wardrobe at a glance and access your chosen outfit without clawing your way through last decade's rejects, you may even have experienced a joyful reunion with a favorite, long-forgotten item that just happens to be all the rage once again. All you need is to all in the gaps to replace any retired essentials and jazz up your wardrobe.

Enter the image consultant, an invaluable ally in your personal style quest. Fashion enthusiasts Samantha von Sperling and Liza Hurd of Polished Social Image Consultants, a full service consulting firm specializing in wardrobe consulting, speech and diction, and etiquette, are quick to dispel a few myths about style. You don't need the vital statistics - or, thankfully, the bank balance - of a supermodel to be effortlessly elegant. What you do need are a few timeless essentials that will guarantee you look wonderful no matter the season or occasion even on those days when nothing else fits or feels right. Their mission is not to give you a makeover, but to help you define your own signature style, and ultimately "exude self-confidence".

MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR COLLECTION

"Focus on closet rotation to get the most of what you own and find a new way of wearing it," says Samantha von Sperling, "Mixing and matching opens up a world of opportunity," She advises organization by colors and textures that may inspire new combinations, such as wearing your suit components as separates to create even more options.

ACCESSORIZE WISELY

"People always notice extremities first," comments Hurd, Not just an afterthought, the perfect accessory can help make an outfit unforgettable, especially when you're wearing your faithful basics, Think coordinating, instead of matching: "You can wear black shoes with navy in a pinch, but navy looks more refined with a skirt. And suede tends to look better in this color than leather, which can make you look a bit like a flight attendant, "smiles Samantha von Sperling. These fashion experts also recommend impeccable grooming, such as always having a pedicure when wearing open-toed shoes. They don't, however, "believe in suffering for fashion. If you can't walk in your shoes, you look like a fashion victim."

DRESS TO SHOWCASE YOUR BEST ASSETS

"Don't try to be somebody else," says Samantha von Sperling, for whom helping clients discover their personal style is the most fascinating and rewarding pan of her work. She also points out that having a signature style is "even more important as fashion changes every six months." You can base your signature on a flattering color or beloved piece, such as a favorite pin or handbag.

If you have an extraordinary collection of scarves or hats, use them to make every outfit a memorable one. If a swan neck is your best feature, adorn it with a selection of dramatic necklines and necklaces. If you're proud of your legs, by all means flaunt them by favoring above-the-knee skirts, and take advantage of being one of the lucky few who can get away with patterned and colored stockings.

DRESS TO SUIT YOUR LIFESTYLE

"Don't be a slave to fashion if the current trend has nothing to do with you," cautions Samantha von Sperling. "Individuality and self-expression are key." You may well wish your calendar consisted entirely of celebrity-studded premiers, but a wardrobe filled with evening gowns and feathered boas is only essential to a real socialite. "If you are a soccer mom, you probably have different considerations, but you still need to get out of your sweatpants and sneakers," says Samantha von Sperling. In this case, she prescribes sweater sets, stretch material, and comfortable loafers for a dressier, but still casual look.

THINK "VERSATILITY"

Wear trans-seasonal fabric like silk, leather, and suede throughout the year, but don't mix "extreme" fabrics such as wool and linen, advises [Samantha von Sperling]. Likewise, be cautious when combining different shades of the same color: "You may get away with this with accessories, but not with bigger pieces" And when in doubt, remember that matte black jersey is the most all-around flattering, forgiving fabric that always looks appropriate, doesn't crease (making it ideal for traveling, and conceals a multitude of flaws.

DON'T BE BRAND-CONSCIOUS

Being stylish doesn't mean you need to live in Armani. Contrary to popular belief, even fashion professionals don't shop exclusively at designer sample sales. Many are avid bargain-hunters. "Some designers are wonderful, but you can find something equally divine at a thrift store," says Hurd. Discount stores like Filene's Basement and Century 21 can also be "a mecca of fashion opportunity." My own successful shopping sprees have yielded a $50 black velvet Ferragamo jacket, $25 Celine silk scarf, and a $6 black nylon handbag that regularly gets mistaken for Gucci.

DON'T BE SIZE-CONSCIOUS

"Sizes mean nothing," emphasizes Hurd with a reassuring smile. "Don't cry in the dressing room if it doesn't fit!" Just like styles and prices, clothing sizes and cuts can be wildly inconsistent between designers and stores, not to mention country of origin. So ignore the numbers, and use me mirror as a guide instead. If an item doesn't quite fit, don't be afraid to try a different size - after all, nobody will check the label, and you will feel more confident if your clothes are comfortable.

UPDATE YOUR LOOK WITH "DISPOSABLE" PIECES

Even without being a slave to trend, some are too irresistible to pass up. However, "don't spend a lot on things that will go out of fashion," says Hurd. "Focus on individual pieces that you can mix and match." She recommends stores like Contempo Casuals, Express, and H&M for trendy touches that will update and revamp your wardrobe, at prices you won't feel guilty about.

After all this hard work, no wonder you feel like celebrating: Your closet door now shuts obediently. You're a model of impeccable organization. You're impossibly stylish. Now consider the thrill of truthfully replying "Oh, this old thing? It's been hanging in my closet forever," the next time you are complimented on an outfit. What more could you wish for?

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